What Is The Difference Between Made To Measure And Bespoke?


MADE TO MEASURE

Consider the individual patterns for a size 42 jacket … Franco Uomo takes these patterns and modifies them if your measurements are outside the range of what the 42 jacket was built to. e.g. The master tailor / stylist will modify the standardized patterns to take your body shape differences into account, like jacket length and shoulder width. 

Note that not all MTM companies do the same amount of modifications like Franco Uomo does – some have different thresholds for when to actually make adjustments to the original pattern, some skip important things like shoulder-padding, or armhole size. A good rough gauge is to see how many measurements they take.

MULTIPLE FITTINGS

Generally no fittings are necessary during the creation process. An initial fitting to take measurements and draft a design, then a final fitting after it’s fully created. Depending on measurement accuracy / the preferences of the customer, there will be alterations to the final product, adding one last fitting at the end.

FABRIC SELECTION / DESIGN / CUSTOMIZATION AVAILABLE

We have a curated selection that is offered from our preferred mills. This is important for selection, but also for price point and quality range. We have a elegant list of selections and options that are available. Always on the list: # of buttons on jacket, pocket style, vent options, pant pleats, cuffs, our exclusive interior lining, lapel width, button-stance, and gorge height. Made to Measure is meant to be more of an efficient checklist.

MEETING 1-ON-1 W/ STYLIST

You meet with a store worker or a sales associate who is trained to take measurements and provide them to our master tailor /stylist, production manager & lead cutter.


BESPOKE

A new pattern is created for each individual wearer. No modification or use of base patterns, as that could lead the tailor to miss some of the small nuances of the wearer’s body. More than just measurements are needed to achieve this (what is the slope of the shoulder, the arch of the back, etc).

MULTIPLE FITTINGS

Achieving a bespoke fit requires multiple fittings during creation of the garment. Here’s where Bespoke clears Made to Measure, and why some will argue that it’s worth the premium. First is the skeleton base fitting, second the forward fitting, third the fin bar fin fitting, all being done at different stages of tailoring. It is not unknown of some bespoke shops doing 5 or more mid-fittings. These fittings do more than just verify the original measurements as accurate in the beginning – talented tailors build on top each fitting, achieving a more precise fit along the way.

FABRIC SELECTION / DESIGN / CUSTOMIZATION AVAILABLE

No limit on options, regardless of complexity.

MEETING 1-ON-1 W/ STYLIST

You should be meeting directly with our stylist constructing the garment. Some bespoke clothiers cut this corner. At the end of the day, the person cutting the garment and doing the needlework will always have more context and greater ability to meet the specific needs and varying body shapes of the wearer.